Welcome to the new version of Drink of the Day, in which I blog less frequently but more deeply on various cocktails and spirits and the like. (I tried to come up with a more accurate name than "Drink of the Day," because they won't be coming along every day, but I figured hey, I have a brand. Not really, but it's a convenient excuse for the fact that I couldn't think of anything new.)
We begin with my effort to find the ideal Hurricane recipe. I've had a few in restaurants and such, but never found one that I really adored. First, we must consider the Hurricane's place in the cocktail pantheon. (For a little background and history of the Hurricane,
click here.) It is what I would call a party drink -- heavy on alcohol but easy to drink, simple to make in big batches, and evocative of a place, New Orleans, and the party mood that it represents. It's a high-volume drink, complete with
its own entry in the glassware universe. At a minimum, it contains dark rum, lime juice and some derivative of passion fruit, but from there, the variations are vast.
I started my search at Pappadeaux, a cajun seafood restaurant. I ordered one and was quite proud of my cocktail savvy when I correctly surmised to the waitress: "This is made with grenadine, instead of passion fruit syrup, right?" She looked at me as if to say, "Oh, great, a cocktail dork." But she cheerfully offered up that they certainly can make the proper version, so I ordered that, too. Needless to say, the grenadine version was far too sweet, even syrupy.
(Rating: 2.5 glasses.) But the version with
passion fruit syrup was darn near perfect. It was sweet, but not overwhelmingly so, and balanced enough that the spices of the rum and the lime flavor came through.
(Rating: 4 glasses.)With that good bit of basic knowledge, it was time to try one at home. As always, I started with my drinking
bible, the Playboy bartending book. It was a good, strong version that highlighted the flavor of the passion fruit syrup. But oddly enough, it was a short drink, served in an old-fashioned glass. That really took all the fun out of it.
(Rating: 3.5 glasses.) Next, in the interest of thoroughness, I broke one of
my cardinal rules and mixed up some powdered Hurricane mix sold by Pat O'Brien's, the original home of the drink. (That makes it OK, right?) That recipe couldn't be simpler: 4 ounces of dark rum, 4 ounces of mix. You can imagine the punch that that packed. The rum was far too strong, and as you would expect with a mix, the drink was thoroughly average.
(Rating: 3 glasses.) Confident at this point in my mixology skills, I decided to try to modify the recipe, switching to 2 ounces of dark rum and one ounce of light. That's when I learned the point of all that rum: to mask the taste of the mix. When that flavor came through, it was a
2-glass rating, and that's probably being generous.
At that point, I had to venture out into some different recipe sources and get creative. I began working from three basic recipes:
this one from whatscookingamerica.net,
this one from gumbopages.com and
this one from the great folks at Kegworks.
The original recipe from whatscookingamerica.net, with its 4 ounces of passion fruit syrup, was ridiculous. It made my mouth pucker, and it wasn't from the lemon juice.
(Rating: 2 glasses.) So I modified it using passion fruit juice instead of syrup. That made the dark rum (Gosling's Black Seal) really stand out. It tasted much better, but still wasn't quite what you think of for a traditional hurricane.
(Rating: 3 glasses.) For good measure, I tried a final version of this recipe with passion fruit nectar, but that was, frankly, boring.
(Rating: 2 glasses.)What I clearly needed was a recipe with a few more subtleties; hence, the gumbopages.com version, with its equal parts light and dark rum, and the use of passion fruit syrup, orange and lime juices, sugar and grenadine. The result was probably the closest I came to the good Pappadeaux version, so it earned a
4-glass rating. Seeking perfection (always a mistake), I started trying different variations. Replacing the passion-fruit syrup with passion-fruit juice made for a refreshing drink, but not one that tasted like a Hurricane.
(Rating: 3.5 glasses.) And using passion-fruit nectar was, again, pretty boring.
(Rating: 2.5 glasses.)Finally, it was on to the Kegworks recipe, and for some reason, I couldn't ever get this one right, so I ended up with a handful of different cocktails. The original recipe -- light and dark rums, passion fruit, orange and lime juices, simple syrup and grenadine -- brought out the intense flavors of the various ingredients, which I liked. The passion-fruit juice was dominant, so the drink could have been a tad sweeter.
(Rating: 3 glasses.) Using passion-fruit syrup instead of grenadine helped a little, but the drink was quite tart.
(Rating: 3.5 glasses.)That's where things started to get comical. I tried loading up on the passion-fruit syrup, subbing it in for both the grenadine and the simple syrup. That made for a better passion-fruit flavor, but it still wasn't very sweet.
(Rating: 2.5 glasses.) I couldn't understand how that could be, until I realized I'd used TEAspoons instead of TABLEspoons. That was enough to throw the drink off. So I tired again, with tablespoons, but I was concentrating so much on that that I used 4 ounces of dark rum instead of 2 ounces of dark and 2 ounces of light. Not surprisingly, this Hurricane was painfully strong. Category 5 strong. (Oh, c'mon, I deserve credit for waiting this long to make a hurricane pun.)
When I finally got it right, it was a
4-glass rating -- still could have been a bit sweeter, but we were getting there. A final variation, using both the double passion-fruit syrup and a dose of simple syrup, bumped the rating to
4.5 glasses. Dropping the simple syrup to a teaspoon would probably make the perfect recipe, though I didn't actually try that, because at that point, I never wanted to see another Hurricane as long as I live.
In the end, it was a lot of work, but it was a good lesson in the subtle variations of various flavors. And a reminder that mixology is experimentation, and tastes vary, so get creative and find what you like.